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Friday, February 4, 2011

Blog #2 - Rathambore NP & Jaipur

Hello S&P followers!

We left Mumbai on Sunday night towards Rathambore National Park on our first overnight train.  This was a fun experience that lasted about 16 hours, and if the others go as this did then all will be good.  Shauna and I were on the upper berths while a family of four bunked below us.  We were in a 2nd class A/C car, which was pleasant enough but well below what you would find on Amtrak and certainly anywhere in Europe. 

We arrived in Sawai Madhopur, the closest station for the NP.  We stayed at the most wonderful resort ever, Khem Villas, and their amiable driver greeted us at the station.  Immediately opon entering the premises, we knew we had chosen well.  This will probably be the last of our luxury stays for quite some time, but it was worth every penny.  After the hustle and bustle of Mumbai, being greeted with hot eucalyptus towels and cold lemonade was a godsend.  After almost 24 hours without a meal, lunch was served in the open terrace.  All meals were included (not to mention vegetarian), and everything was freshly prepared that day.  Khem Villas has a huge garden on the edge of their property where all their comes from.  To say the food was delicious is an understatement.  Fresh green salad and vegetables are amazing (not dunked in ridiculously hot spices, anyway). Don't forget that back home while we bounce around the subcontinent for the next three weeks.
Each day went something like this: You wake up at 6:30am to room service serving tea and coffee.  You shower up and hop on your jeep for the morning safari (Khem Villas provided blankets and a hot water canteen to keep you warm, something no one else in the jeep had and envied us for).  You were back by 11 and had a late breakfast.  You then have a few hours to relax on their pristine property before going on the afternoon safari at 2:30pm.  Returning at 6pm, you again relax by the camp fire and exchange life stories with the other guests over drinks before dinner is served between 8-9pm.  We would go back out to the fire after dinner to enjoy what was the best night sky we have ever seen.  Period.  Absolutely no electricity for hundreds of miles will do that, but we were still shocked to see the stars so bright they were blue.  We averaged a shooting star every three to five minutes. 
Unfortunately, we did not see the main attraction; the Bengal tiger.  We went in three times, but there are 10,000 acres and only 40 tigers.  Being wild and lazy, they can be tricky to spot.  Nevertheless, we were not disappointed but rather encouraged that these beautiful animals have the space and protection not to be gawked at should they choose.  Also, the park itself was awesome.  You'll see some pics but it really is a beautiful place.    

We left RNP on Thursday for Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan often referred to as the Pink City.  In many ways Jaipur is even crazier than Mumbai.  The traffic is more congested, and the crap on the street is not cleaned up as fast.  We went into the old city and saw the main sites, with the main Hindu temple (Hawa Mahal) being the prettiest structure.  The following day we rented out a rickshaw (wallas) and rode out to Amber Fort, easily the most beautiful man made thing we've seen so far.  Pictures to follow.
The two best stories to tell from here are about the fun and danger in riding on the rickshaws and Shauna attempting to wear shorts in public. 
First the rickshaws, just to keep up the suspense about Shauna.  They are nothing more than glorified scooters by Piaggio.  Looking back now, it is defintely a dangerous move to get on one in that traffic, but then again they are the "school buses" for all the local children.  We're talking about 10 8 year olds (in uniform) packed into something the two of us could hardly fit into.  It was a cool experience though and at the moment we're still breathing.
Then there was shorts-gate.  It was hot when we left RNP, and it was a travel day.  Shauna wore shorts thinking we weren't doing much in the way of site seeing.  We ended up just dropping our stuff off and getting into the city before dinner.  It ended up being 4 hours of Shauna being glared at like the town hussy.  It was hilarious but also kind of disturbing.  Men would literally drive by on their motorbikes and rickshaws, stop short on the street and pretend to park on the side of the road to let us walk by again.  Women looked on in horror as men salivated at what seems to be six inches of skin between the knee and thigh they have never seen before.  Suffice it to say the lesson was learned and Shauna will not be wearing shorts until we hit Thailand.  

That is all for now, look for the pictures.  We're off to Pushkar and Udaipur next, two very spiritual places in the Hindu religion.

Until #3.

S&P    

2 comments:

  1. Well done, jolly good entry. Pat--you are quite the humorist! I WAS in suspense over shorts-gate. It's amazing to hear about things we read or see in movies and realize they're true. It's funny but also, scary. Ditto on Shaunsie not wearing shorts for awhile. Keep up with the sunblock, you do your Dad proud. Enjoy your next adventure and write when you can. I think everyone is enjoying these so far--Grandma eats them up.

    It's not snowing today. Tomorrow.

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  2. shorts-gate = typical Shauna!

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