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Monday, March 14, 2011

Post #8 - Sukhothai & Chiang Mai

Hello Loyal Bloggers,

We have reached the Lao border and we're enjoying a relaxing night on the Mekong River before taking a two day slow boat tour down to Louang Prabang.  We've had an amazing week in northern Thailand, but we're also sad to be leaving such an amazing country.
We left Bangkok for a quick 6 hour bus ride to Sukhothai.  The city is now small (but lively), but it was once the capital of Siam for about 150 years during the 11th/12th centuries.  The main attraction, therefore, is the impressive ruins scattered about 14 kilometers away from New Sukhothai.  We rented bikes and spent a pleasant day riding around the ancient city.  We spent the evening meeting a couple of cool Americans and "Brits".  We put Brits in parenthesis as Mark and Paul are from the Isle of Mann.  Apparently they are not technically part of Britain, and they have their own bank notes and everything.  You can use British Pounds on the island, but you can't use Manx notes in Britain.  That's right, we said Manx.  That's what they call themselves there; Manx.  Is that not the coolest name for a people you've ever heard?  Anyway, after a fun night at Chopper Beer Bar listening to live Thai music on an acoustic guitar, we had a great night sleep at Ban Thai Guesthouse.  This is probably our favorite GH so far since the family who runs it is so friendly and helpful.

Next was Chiang Mai, a perfect city 6 hours to the north of Sukhothai.  It's Thailand's capital of the north, but you would never realize this as it's as different as can be from Bangkok.  We joke around that we should get all our friends and move here as most would fall in love as quickly as we did.  It's large enough to have great health care (they have their own neurological hospital, for example) and a big university, but small enough to keep its character.  It's a big expat town for sure, but it's a very relaxed expat crowd that adds the to city's charm.  The night we got there we had only eaten breakfast due to the long bus ride and were famished.  We saw a burrito place and it immediately piqued our interest.  The burritos were awesome.  The establishment was obviously started by an California native, as the menu suggested, and it was just the kind of meal we've been craving for a month now.  There are places like this all over.  A German coffee house here, and New York style pizza place there.  Believe us when we say that Chiang Mai is a place where we could legitimately live.    
Outside the city there are endless activities to experience as well.  Mountain biking and trekking tours, elephant riding courses, and white water rafting are just a few of the options available.  After two days in the city we opted for a two day, one night trek into the hill tribe region to the west.  You'll see in the pictures but both days were fantastic.  It started off with elephant riding that set Shauna off.  She was one with our pachyderm.  After was an intense 3+ hour trek through the hills.  At one point you're in dense jungle cutting a path with a machete and at another point you feel like you're in a Vietnam War movie waiting to take cover.  The first rain of the year started to fall for the last 20 minutes.  At first it was light but all of a sudden the sky opened up.  We were on a clay road towards the end so we thought we must be close to the end.  As the rain got to its heaviest point our guide said simply, "here" as he turned left up a 60 degree incline to what looked like nothing.  Pat actually said out loud, "You have to be ^&#%-ing kidding me!" as we ascended the last 15 minutes soaking wet.  If we got to that point 15 minutes later it would have been too wet to climb.  We made it to the village nonetheless and were relieved to find the camera completely dry.  The village, like many in northern Thailand, is occupied by a tribe separate and distinct from the rest of the country.  Ours was part of the Karen people.  There are about 20 huts and maybe 200 people total.  We slept on the floor of a hut on planks.  It was comfortable enough, and our company made the trip a breeze.  We were one of three couples, along with one from France and another from the Netherlands.  We ate dinner and talked for a few hours before going to bed.  At one point we asked for cigarettes and the man of the house rolled us some tobacco and tamarind inside a large banana leaf.  It was really tasty.  The next day breakfast was followed by another tough 3 hour trek up and down the hill tribe region, close to the Burmese border.  Shauna saw a harmless garden snake and absolutely freaked out.  It was while we were still in the village so everyone was asking our guide what happened.  We were being laughed at as we left.  We made it to civilization and ate lunch, and got into a bamboo raft for an hour before making our way back to Chiang Mai.  We were so exhausted it was an early night back in the city.  Looking back the two days were perfect, and we would recommend the experience to anyone. 
The next day was a open day in the city.  It worked out perfectly as Pat read and napped as Shauna got not one, not two, but three different massages.  Technically a pedicure is not a massage, but adding that to a full body oil massage and a foot massage and you get the picture.  Her foot massage was right before bed as Pat watched Premiership football, so as we said the day worked out perfectly.  We did manage to see each other, however.  After Pat awoke at 3pm, we took a 3 hour Thai cooking course that was a lot of fun.  We each cooked five meals (and ate them all), and five times argued over who made what better.  This is yet another worth while activity in Chiang Mai that will pay off again and again.  We left with a big recipe book, and Shauna says that since Pat was so obnoxious about his Thai cooking skills that he's making the meals back home.  We'll see.

That's about it for now, we'll write again in a few days.  After our two day cruise Shauna is spoiling Pat for his birthday with a nice hotel and dinner in Louang Prabang.  It's supposed to be a fabulous city, one of those rare places where culture thrives despite being a thick and large jungle away from anywhere else.  Who else but the French could do that? 

As always, much love and appreciation.

S&P

2 comments:

  1. you two are almost too cute. almost. your descriptions of the places and of each other's individual experiences in those places makes me so happy. yet envious nonetheless. and shauna: casey and i are both super impressed with the star-fish pose on the bicycle! not as easy as you make it look;)

    I fully expect an authentic thai cuisine when you guys return! love love love!!

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  2. You and I are on the same page, Cecelia. That split on the bike frightened me to tears. With my balance, I would have been over the top after 10 feet. Great experiences. Happy Birthday, My Son. Twenty-eight years ago, just about right now, I was out with all the young neighborgood kids in Pleasantville, playing soccer. That next morning @ 6 am, Pat decided to show his face. A St. Paddy's baby. Your Nana was SO excited. Hope to be in touch tomorrow.

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